alternator exciter wire test

I removed the ALt excite wire from the alternator and checked the wire itself, it has 0 ohms resistance and all connectors are free from rust. At the time I posted I did not realize that the circuit was open and therefore that the alternator was not running. On the other side of the bulb run a wire to the brown exciter wire behind the alternator. Now I've read there has to be a diode in the exciter path (Brown Wire) to. So something that is in line with that exciter is not allowing the correct voltage thru/not enough to the alternator to get it to run correctly. With a charged battery, your voltmeter should read a bit over 14 volts, and stay pretty steady. A few weeks ago I had no voltage even if I revved the engine. On the other hand, a 3-wire alternator has the regulator . Excitor wire is needed to generate the voltage required for the alternator to start running. Our alternator kit also contains the pigtail exciter to ensure that the alternator will charge even if your harness doesn't have the plug, or if you're doing a carburetor swap (simply attach to the alt and a switched 12V source). 3. If you are using a one wire alternator, this wire will not be used and should be capped off as it is "hot" in the ignition "on" position. - Alternator test said the alternator was working great. The exciter wire does not always show an application of full 12v. Terminal 1 should be connected to the gen, battery, or alt dashboard light. All late-model alternators employ an electronic voltage regulator. Rotor (field) - The red and the blue wires of the alternator are of the brushes which are connected to the rotor (field) with the help of the slip rings.Red is for positive and blue is for negative. 3,853. Wondering if one of you can help with my alternator issue. The big stud on the alternator is the main output wire and it usually goes to the starter solenoid where there's a big +12V cable from the battery. If nothing happens at the volt meter, disconnect the wire you just connected and connect the last of the three wires to the batt+. As mentioned, without the exciter terminal connected, you sometimes must rev the engine a bit to get it to start charging from residual magnetism in the alternator as mentioned. Exciting a Two-Wire Alternator The wires that are used in this process are two. GM has many different alternators and each has its own alternator wiring diagram and alternator symptoms. Didn't light up. 9. By adding more or less current to the rotor electro-magnet, the rotating magnetic field intensifies or lessens, and the alternator makes more or less current. The wire, same color, is also connected to the diagnostic port. With this setup the alternator starts charging as soon as the engine is running Three-wire Alternator: This setup uses a battery wire, ignition/warning light wire and voltage sensing wire, Three wires. same deal rev the engine a little and check voltage. is there a way to test this before pulling the alt back out and returning it? JHZR2. All circuits are usually the same : voltage, ground, individual component, and switches. It receives the battery supremacy throughout the ECM and conducts through the regulator. Key off -. Nothing was signaling the alternator to start charging so I was running right off the battery. One more test I did was to hack the connector and plug the alternator exciter wire in so the alternator was running, and read the voltage on the second pin coming off the alternator - it read 0V. Tweet. The exciter circuit indicator lamps are both rated at 3mA so wont pull enough power to the coils from my limited understanding The dash is reasonably nice and adding a bulb holder big enough to take a 3w incandescent bulb would look rough, so I would like to, if it is possible, use the parallel resistor method to draw current to the field coils . Here's a video on how to properly and safely test your alternator. Take a piece of wire and on one end attach a small bulb like a dashlight bulb and run the other end to the battery positive. Read electrical wiring diagrams from unfavorable to positive and redraw the signal being a straight collection. Does it check the vehicle's voltage internally or from an outside source? The voltage regulator's job is to supply voltage to the battery when it's not at the nominal level. From the alternator output to the ground should be at least 13.5-14.0vdc. Get a short piece of wire with an adequate terminal plug on one end, and an o-ring on the other. The PDF shown here is for a GM . Which is it? . Connected the test light's clip to positive and touched the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to giving it 12v. It was tuning but it was not running. Copy. If I plug the exciter wire back up with the engine running and the alternator providing 14.2 volts, I see no change until I restart the vehicle. The blue wire is the signal for the cluster to control the battery light. The other wire is the "Exciter" to enable the alternator. The system consists of an AC exciter, a static field and a rotating armature. The last couple years my alternator had no voltage at start-up, but if I revved the engine a few times the voltage came up to about 13.9. This should be run to keyed-on power. vdc. I guess it is possible to have a bad new alternator.. similar alternator. It has a 130 amp output which is plenty for 99% of all swap vehicles. Source: blogspot.com The positive and negative cables are small and connected to the respective terminals of the battery. First, you need to connect the alternator directly to the positive terminal on the battery. If you are using an alternator that requires an internal or external voltage regulator, this exciter wire must be connected to the . Computer-Controlled Voltage Regulation. This is how the battery gets charged when the engine is running. . The red wire next to it on the plug is the exciter wire. Turn the key on and the light comes on, start the engine and when the alternator starts charging the light goes off, something happen and the alternator stops charging the light comes on warning of a problem. Most modules use an internal driver to turn the alternator's field circuit on . The exciter wire is a small strand of wire that is connected to a switch on the alternator. All of the local BigName shops now test stuff for free. The prior and very suspect alternator/wiring had no exciter wire, so I left the new Sierra-supplied Exciter wire in the box. Im NOT any Alternator expert, see what Jim N has to say. Power from the ignition switch passes through the battery warning light and then to the alternator exciter circuit. Put the rubber boot and the rubber grommet back on. The resistor is there to force the exciter wire to pass through the bulb, thus illuminating it at start up or if there's an issue with the alternator's charging (path of least resistance) This wire lets you shut down the alternator when the motor is turned off Plug caps may be cracked, which can cause corrosion or an open circuit Wire it up like it was before (with longer wires) and Free . . Then , turn your meter to AC volts. Check/Replace Alternator. The small white wire on the two-wire plug is for the "charge" or "alt" light on the dash. I have noticed that when the engine is started initially at low RPMs the voltmeter only shows the battery charging just above 13 V. When I accelerate the RPMs of the engine a bit I get a better charge of over 14.2 V. If now good, replace the exciter wire pigtail. If the battery voltage is below 14V (or so) it closes and puts current through the alternator rotor which causes the field coil voltage to increase. stop back feeding voltage to the ignition. once you figured out which two wires excite and sense the alternator you can hook . Exciter wire on alternator only puts out around 8.7v (at pin 12 and on terminal). Autozone is the one nearest me. Each part ought to be placed and linked to other parts in particular way. If not, the struc-ture will not function as it ought to be. It's also priced very competitively compared . Alternator charging issues & blue exciter wire. Alternator went bad on me at 115k. Thermo King Alternator Wiring Diagram Source: www.hattink-thermoparts.com. For the 197-400, the single wire goes to the L terminal at the alternator. See if you get any real AC volts on the line (bad diodes). . It may have to be a switched source or there will be a draw on that wire when the engine is off that slowly kills your battery. If it drops more than .06-volt like here at 13.97 volts the charge wire is too small, or there is resistance at the connections. Tighten the bolt with a nut to connect the two o-rings with the alternator. :waving: 1969 Z11 Pace Car - L48 350cid/300hp - 4 Speed Muncie 12 bolt rear. After the temperature warms up to 50 degrees F, I get 2.1 volts on the exciter wire plugged in and battery voltage on the exciter . If not, unplug the exciter wire and verify you have 12 vdc at the wire plug. BTW the run on is possible if there is no diode in that exciter circuit on CS130 alternators. If good, remove the plug from the exciter wire and plug it directly to the alternator "L" terminal. the connection to the cluster or the cluster itself. Thanks again all this help is much appreciated Edit: . 1. The single red wire leads to the alternator exciter. Disconnect the alternator lead And start the engine. #6. Which means in self-excited Alternator, Isolation Transformer is responsible for two things- (1) Sensing Voltage (2) Powering AVR after initial voltage build-up due to residual magnetism. The white wire is the exciter wire and is fed from a switched 12V source, but it needs either a charge light or a resistor put inline with it, so you don't burn up the regulator. Operation of separately excited machine. Any help would be greatly appreiccaited! this makes the sense wire see low voltage and tells the alternator "i need more voltage" the alternator says "OK" and runs up until it hits the internal failsafe around 15v. I noticed that if I unplug the exciter wire, I get 14.2 volts regardless of the engine state, cold or hot. . The output of the exciter is rectified by a full-wave thyristor bridge rectifier and fed to the field winding of the main AC alternator. Check the fuse if you don't, or wires associated with that circuit. Plug the wire into terminal 2, and place the o-ring side over the bolt, after the red wire. Voltage sensing is used when you want the alternator to read voltage at some other point than the battery. 'Field' meaning 'Magnetic Field' produced by the Rotor in the alternator. The one wire is used for the key. Generator exciter diagram below: The field winding of the alternator is also provided through another rectifier circuit. Ordered a new one online and installed and still not charging. The 12v exciter wire shows 1.2v when connected to the alternator but when disconnected it shows full battery voltage, so the exciter wiring and warning light wiring is all fine as well! fed from the commutator, to the charging circuit to establish battery voltage. HOWEVER as I understand it, the little No 1 spade Exciter terminal, on the GM 10SI Family of 3 wire alternators, would initially draw current from the 12 volt battery source, but once the alternator is up to speed and self exciting, its like 12 volts is then at that terminal (internaly via the alternator) so there wouldnt be any current . It is known as 'bang-bang control'. I understand that the ignition key is to send this 12v signal but it aint workin so that's why I do it with a test wire at the alternator plug (3 wire). OldMachinist said: You can hook it to switched 12+ source or jumper it to the main stud. If sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts or lower than the target voltage, the PCM grounds the field winding until sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts above target voltage. 8. It is the wire that supplies the initial field current to the alternator from the battey. 11-28-2020, 10:59 AM. It then determines a target charging voltage. Location: Channahon, Il. Check/Replace Voltage Regulator. My 1993 300SD charges fine after I take the engine up to over 2000 RPM. With the engine off, battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. You should never install a disconnect switch between the alternator and the battery. Jul 17, 2021. #1 terminal to activate the alternator. By removing fuses I have traced it to the alternator excite feed wire from the ignition switch. My understanding is that this means that it isnt getting excited by the D+ circuit, which is supposed to come from a switched source. I checked the voltage at the exciter wire and was receiving 12v when the engine was running. 2. Read electrical wiring diagrams from unfavorable to positive and redraw the signal being a straight collection. Put it all back together and after 5 min with the battery hooked up noticed a little smoke again from the alternator. . If not, you have a wiring problem upstream. The EXC. Owner - Bavarian Restoration Touched the tip to the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to. The one-wire alternator you have is unlikely to be compatible with the "3-wire" harness. John Deere Alternator Wiring Diagram Source: www.tractorshed.com. Loop to fuse . Unplug the Negative Terminal of the Vehicle Battery Remove the negative terminal from the vehicle battery before starting anything. Here is my problem no dash warning light to connect to as no original dash unit,, So i ran a wire from the flick type ignition switch as using press button start, to a test bulb approx 12v 5w, and . Not knowing how your boat was originally wired, I'd try to find a wiring diagram from a sistership to see how that particular alternator was supposed to be installed. Bob Driver said: Simple alternator test using a VOM (multi-meter). . Click here to watch a video about this Tech Tip visit our You Tube . GREEN wire is the 'Field' control wire. It is used to excite the field windings of the alternator, which in turn creates the amount of amps. Save Share. The maximum output from your alternator should be regulated to between 14.1 and 14.4 volts DC. With car running the light is very faint, in accessory position . GM alternator wiring GM alternator wiring. With the wire removed from the Alt, the batt drop at the gauge is less then 0.2v. Coil once started runs through a resistor which drops the voltage down. The light will trigger the alternator to start producing electricity. Separately excited system of Alternator. Remove the wire and start the vehicle. It was only at 2.86 volts and it only held it for about 30 seconds. John Deere Alternator Wiring Diagram Source: talk.newagtalk.com. For a 1-wire, run a pigtail wire from the #2 sensor terminal directly to the battery output terminal. You 'll have to skin back a bit of the insulator. Project step-by-step (2) Step 1 Conduct a Voltmeter Test Get a cheap voltmeter. Note that the exciter wire has to be on a switched . A typical 3-wire alternator wiring diagram with an internal voltage regulator. The battery light (9 Ohm 1.5W bulb) comes on when there is a potential difference between . You will always have two wires connected to switched/battery to make the charge. Square side is T2e/2 ---- L < The pin reference at the 4-pin connector is T4/2. also a sense connections (Small Red wire). (none of the prongs lit up the test light). Oddly on the cluster the battery, park brake and brake fluid lights are very, VERY faint. The voltmeter should now increase its voltage reading to around 14 volts. Proper tinned copper wire and marine heat shrink butt connectors were used. 2. Thermo King Alternator Wiring Diagram Source: az417944.vo.msecnd.net. If you still do not have a reading of approximately 14.5 to 14.9, replace the alternator and the exciter wire . I left off the Exciter wire when replacing my 1984 Universal Catalina 30 alternator with a new 51 Amp Sierra 18 6263 "Internal Regulator" alternator. All circuits are usually the same : voltage, ground, individual component, and switches. If you unplug the harness from the alternator and measure directly at the plug on the end of the harness you should see battery voltage on the exciter wire with the key in the ON position. The other two pins are T4/3 and T4/4 which involve the AC Compressor. Alternator Exciter Wiring Diagram - alternator exciter circuit dia-gram, alternator exciter wiring diagram, Every electrical arrange-ment is made up of various dierent pieces. Battery charged at 12.7v drops below 12v with car running (new battery). Long story short, figured the alternator went bad so I replaced the alternator and the wiring for R and F connectors. #2 Run the exciter wire from the "RUN" position of the ignition switch through an idiot light and to the alternator. . That will give me constant power to the alternator . One of the key differences is how the internal voltage regulator determines charge rate. I know it is easy to break the exciter wire since it is difficult getting the alterator out but it dont look broke. terminal should be grounded when the alternator is not charging and will have battery voltage when it is. 2) Read battery voltage (should be between 12.3 and 12.7V, for a fully charged battery depending on ambient temperature) Engine Running -. 1994 Jeep Wrangler 2.4L Auto Seen around Long Beach and Big Bear. Once the alternator is rotating the field current will be provided by the diodes from . If the voltage at the battery is within 0.5-volt of the alternator voltage, then the charge wire is okay. Then it droped to .11 volts and the alternator stop charging. Exciter wire is connected to the L terminal of an alternator and is used to turn on the voltage regulator. Now into the meat of things, there are two wires from the PCM to the Alternator. If the alternator isn't charging, then re-check all connections and belt tension before removing the alternator. BLACK wire is the 'Excite' wire to the regulator. If the battery voltage is above 14V the switch opens and thus no current flows through the rotor and the main field coil voltage drops. You will know how simple it is to connect a new 3-wire alternator to update your old vehicle in the steps below. Posts: 217. It returns from side to side of the other wire to the beam on the dash, which goes off once the engine begins spinning the alternator. 1. How much does a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor reduce a 12v so. With this done, turn on the key. Best Answer. The 4-pin connecctor is located at/above the starter. But I thought the 10SI needed the exciter voltage from the ignition switch (Brown Wire) to get it started charging and. My exciter or field wire isn't working going to the alternator but I can excite it by bring 12V to the alternator using a test wire. I've always preferred the 3 wire or a one wire. You'll be done in no time if you stick to them. My bad, it's the other wire you need. I'm going to try to get to auto zone this weekend and have them test both my battery and alternator and then go from there. The problem is the exciter wire stays on with a full 12.5 V running through it no matter the key position. - brushes were worn, but still . From what you say about the No.1 wire it seems that it is working like it should be. Yes that wire need a momentary power to excite or kick in the alternator. If you have a 10 or 12-SI alternator, the exciter wire will be connected to the light. This is not a difficult chore to complete. 1) Red lead on +, black led on - battery post. If it's below that, charge the battery with a battery charger before you conduct the test again. "This wire is the exciter wire for your alternator/voltage regulator. If you see a voltage drop of that much, you are either hooking it up to the wrong terminal on the alternator or your alternator is bad. Before that the alternator doesnt put out. 1) Red lead on +, black led on - battery post. The #1 exciter terminal is left open. ?100% it's not 12v I've proven this will burn up the internal regulator! Or, contact the alternator maker and ask them--they're usually pretty good about it--how that exciter wire was supposed to be connected. It is very important to make sure that nothing interrupts this feed to the battery. I just get back in there with a test light and found one that fit my criteria. As far as the wiring rats nest I know. Armature-the big long screw of the alternator is the main output positive terminal and it separate from any other screw on alternator.. Connect the positive red wire from the brushes to the main . Without the shortcut lead I only see 13.8V at the same test . When the temperature outside is in the low 30's I get 0 volts on the exciter wire with it plugged into the alternator with the key on and with the engine running, this of course causes the alternator to not charge. The positive cable goes to the starter and connects to the post with the red 10 guage wire that goes to the alternator. On my Fords I connect the warning light wire to the exciter wire on the Delco. That wire (blue) is the alternator charge wire and is connected to switched ignition. It is usually connected to the charge indicator light, which is powered by the ignition switch. Feb 10, 2016. 5v, 8v, 10v ?? 12SI, 94 amp, at 3:00 (AC-DELCO # 321-266, Lester #7294-3) Tell the auto parts counter person that "The alternator is for a 1984 High performance Chevy Camaro, with 5.0L (305G) engine, 94amp alternator 12SI, 94 amp, at 9:00 (AC-DELCO # 321-269, Lester #7294-9) Tell the auto parts counter person that "The alternator is for a 1985 Buick. A circuit in the PCM cycles the battery positive (high side) of the generator field up to 400 times per second (400Hz), but has . Multi meter ends up reading 16+ volts. Sounds like you need to bench test the Alternator for a bad diode, or Voltage Regulator maybe. .. For the good of the Free World, DEMAND COMPENSATION FROM CHINA for their release of the Virus Originating in the Wuhan Laboratory., released (intentionally or negligently) into the world in 2019 (VOWL-19) Ten trillion to start with, increasing as needed . Bring your Alt in, and they test it. Alternator puts out maybe 1 to 1.33v. This is the large wire on the large stud on your Gen/Alt and you should have battery voltage or alternator output voltage on this stud. The 197-400 has a single wire and that needs to go to a switched +12V source. It requires minimal voltage to excite the fields and the voltage regulator decides that voltage. To check the brushes is resistance between F and alternator body/earth the correct test? I started the car and went to test the pin 1 (exciter) to see the voltage. Skidsteer.ca. Using a multimeter how can I test these field terminals? GM and I both favor hooking it to the key switch so that it is powered up when the key is in the 'on' position. Many late-model vehicles use the engine computer, which is often referred to as the powertrain control module (PCM), to control alternator output. It supplies power to the exciter inside the alternator and that is why it is important that the warning light is working.

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